This week I wanted to begin with a deeply pleasant take on Chardonnay from one of my favorite producers anywhere: Tissot’s ‘Patchwork’ Chardonnay from the Arbois AOC in the Jura. A few years ago, when I was still a bartender at Boulud Sud, Tissot wines were some of my first wine loves. From their most oxidative examples to their freshest offerings. I always found a sense of soul and an addictive quaffability. This hasn’t changed for me, and I still find their myriad cuvées to be exciting, challenging and intriguing.
This ‘Patchwork’ Chardonnay is a perfect example of the honest, caring viticulture of Tissot’s biodynamic approach blended with the harmonious quality of Chardonnay grown on Limestone. They use only natural fermentation, and minimal to no sulfur in the cellar. This gifts the wines with a backbone of vivacious acidity, surrounded by salinity, citrus and a touch of tropical fruit. It sees almost entirely old oak, being an example of an achievement of rotund texture without imparting oak flavor. I love drinking this wine with just about any food, particularly our richer seafood dishes, or escargot! I’m such a fan that I decided to pour all the magnums of 2017 I have from Monday through Wednesday.
Then, for Thursday, some Christian Tschida white from the Neusiedlersee region of Burgenland in Austria. Another minimalist, Tschida makes wines for pure pleasure. This 2015 ‘Himmel auf Erden’ Weiss is a blend of Weissburgunder & Scheurebe, and is a unique foray into the crossroads of texture, density and refreshment. He destems, crushes by foot, then leaves the wine in 500 to 1500-liter barrels for a year, before bottling unfiltered without adding sulfur. Pure and honest, herbaceous and citrusy. I’ve only got one magnum, so come get it Thursday before it’s all gone!
For the weekend, little introduction is needed. It’s only getting hotter out, and I wanted to intersect this stickiness with a classic Brut Rosé from the house of Billecart-Salmon. Elegant yet accessible, this wine is always an easy go-to with any variety of foods. Of course, all Champagne is better out of large format…so we’ll open a Jeroboam (or two) over the course of Friday and Saturday.
To end the week, we return to Abbatucci’s “Cuvée Faustine” Rosé from the island of Corsica. I opened a magnum of the 2016 vintage two weeks back, and it was showing so well that I decided to feature it for the rest of the summer. I was able to get enough of it that we’ll be pouring it every Sunday from here until it cools down (middle September or so). Call it our Sunday Panier Special! It’s a mastery of soft pink fruit, with a palate-enveloping minerality that supports the easy strawberry-esque quality. The acidity ensures refreshment; the smooth finish lasts for days. It’s beautiful with all food, and will become a staple of our Sundays here at Bar Boulud. Hope to see you soon!
MONDAY, TUESDAY & WEDNESDAY
Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot,
Arbois Chardonnay ‘Patchwork’ Jura 2017
THURSDAY
Christian Tschida,
Neusiedler See Weiss ‘Himmel auf Erden’ Austria 2015
FRIDAY & SATURDAY
Billecart-Salmon,
Brut Rosé NV
Poured from a 3-Liter Jeroboam
SUNDAY
Comte Abbatucci,
Corsica Rosé ‘Cuvée Faustine’ 2016